November 16, 2014 in art, surfing

When I started surfing, I lived in New York.  Like most New Yorkers, I didn’t own a car.  Every Saturday and Sunday morning, I’d take the subway with my board and gear to Penn Station and catch a local train out to Long Beach, Long Island.  Now, although I live in southern California and own a car, it still takes effort to find waves.  Surfers spend a lot of time in their car, truck, van, whatever they drive.

Time, miles are spent driving to surf spots.  On arrival, there’s no guarantee of good surf.  Many conditions need to gel:  swell, tide, wind, crowd in the water, finding parking.  So what do you do when the conditions aren’t right?  You wait, eat, play music, take a nap, read, find another beach – all in your surfmobile.

When the conditions are right, it’s time to change, get into the water.  Surfing is one of the few sports, maybe the only sport, where it’s ok for friends and strangers from all walks of life – men, women, kids – to change clothes right next to each other, out in the open.  One of the first things a surfer learns is to change outdoors:  wrap a towel around the body and get into a wetsuit.

In our truck, when we go surfing, my husband and I carry a cooler with two gallons of warm water.  Great to pour over ourselves after getting out of the water, especially during the winter.  In the truck, we always have sunscreen, a comb, surfboard wax and combs, liters of water, and of course, towels.  The lucky ones who surf before work, they carry a change of work clothes.

For all the time and miles spent to catch a few waves, it’s no wonder why some surfers show their love for surfing and their style in what they drive.


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