green room, green fin

April 25, 2015 in art, nature, surfing

In late January, forces combined to create perfection at Bolsa Chica, HB:  firm, offshore winds; a clean, consistent swell; late afternoon sun, which glowed through hollow waves.  Where my husband Terry, my photographer-surfer friend Pam, and I were checking the conditions, three guys were surfing.  They were good.  They made it look easy, dropping into the green room.

 

 

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