green room, green fin

green room, green fin

In late January, forces combined to create perfection at Bolsa Chica, HB:  firm, offshore winds; a clean, consistent swell; late afternoon sun, which glowed through hollow waves.  Where my husband Terry, my photographer-surfer friend Pam, and I were checking the conditions, three guys were surfing.  They were good.  They made it look easy, dropping into
...read more

surfmobile

surfmobile

When I started surfing, I lived in New York.  Like most New Yorkers, I didn’t own a car.  Every Saturday and Sunday morning, I’d take the subway with my board and gear to Penn Station and catch a local train out to Long Beach, Long Island.  Now, although I live in southern California and own
...read more

june gloom

june gloom

It’s June.  We’ve officially entered the season of June Gloom.  I knew nothing about June Gloom, until I moved to southern California.  It’s a local weather pattern that starts in late spring and can last through the summer.  During this time, the coastal areas in southern California start off the day with overcast skies.  On
...read more